Does glitter harm the environment? From David Bowie to Britney Spears, celebrities have used sparkling make-up for extra star power – but now the EU is cracking down on its environmental footprint

Glitter—the tiny particles that dapple your face with stardust—has been both a staple and an enigma in the cosmetics world. From the disco pop divas of the 70’s to the 90’s, it’s a trusted companion to countless celebrities looking to shine on the red carpet, runway or stage. Yet glitter has always had a bad-boy image, raising an eyebrow or two over its environmental footprint, a sustainability puzzle that recently spurred the European Union, no less, into action.

As it turns out, in the glamorous space, options abound. Loose glitter offers artistic versatility, ideal for blending and layering, but requires a steady hand and patience due to potential effect. Pressed glitter, on the other hand, is neat and easy to apply, making it perfect for beginners or those trying to create more complex designs.

For the artistically inclined, glitter gels and liquid glitters available in tubes or pens are also easy to wear and can be used to paint intricate designs and body art, as celebrity makeup artist Umberto Moya explains that “I usually recommend starting with small palettes , little glitter pots, or some formula that’s already mixed with a medium that will help with adhesion instead of giving you the powdery look. Loose glitter tends to spill and go everywhere; it’s much harder to control.”

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While glitter has become a global beauty staple, with brands around the world weaving it into product lines in various forms, a select few have gone above and beyond to claim a spot in the glittery Hall of Fame. From the light-catching neutrals and classic shades of Chanel’s Les Beiges Healthy Glow palettes to the deeply nourishing and intense iridescence of Tom Ford’s Soleil Balm Frost lip balm; from Valentino’s runway-inspired Dreamdust Lip and Cheek Gloss to the creamy shimmer shades in the Makeup by Mario’s Master Metallics eyeshadow palette; from Clé De Peau’s pink and three-dimensional Cream Rouge Sparkles liquid lipstick to the sparkling nude pink finish of Chantecaille’s Lip Crystal lipstick, the possibilities to add a little sparkle to your makeup are endless.

Some brands lead the way in innovation and artistry, taking the world of glitter to new heights and turning their formulas into coveted collectibles among beauty fans around the world. Pat McGrath Labs, headed by the mother of modern makeup, McGrath herself, has rewritten the rules of glitter by incorporating glitter into its brand DNA. Her Mothership Palettes and Blitz Astral Quad Eyeshadow Palette are a testament to her commitment to formulating a glow that is much more than just sparkles, promising a multi-dimensional glow that captures the essence of the cosmos, no less.

Another contender on the glamor scene is Rabanne, formerly known as Paco Rabanne. After a sleek rebrand in June, the brand introduced a mesmerizing line of makeup for Gen-Z consumers, a demographic that has wholeheartedly embraced the brand’s space-age aesthetic. The Eyephoria Collection embodies the bold vision of the late Paco Rabanne and legendary metallic creations with impactful palettes and 12 dazzling shades of cream-to-paint liquid eyeshadows, drawing on the brand’s metallic chain, metallic mesh, silver and gold elements.

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For glitter to look its best, Moya says you should always aim to do your glitter first. “Apply it before foundation, concealer, or any other tanning products in case there’s any build-up,” he recommends. “This will prevent your glitter from ruining your makeup or mixing with your other products. Once you’re done, you can use a piece of stationery or masking tape to remove it and clean up the area. Then you can go ahead and apply or touch up your foundation.”

However, beneath the glitz and glamor lies a concern that is gaining momentum – the impact of glitter on the environment. Since glitter particles are usually made of plastic, millions and millions of these tiny, shiny morsels end up in our oceans and waterways, threatening marine life and ecosystems and contributing to the planet-wide plastic pollution crisis.

To address this environmental challenge, the EU took a significant step by introducing a phased-in glitter ban, starting with rules targeting bulk, non-biodegradable, plastic-based glitter in cosmetics and other applications that came into effect in October. In the future, he intends to move on to glitter in other forms.

This has significant implications for the beauty market, as manufacturers must now reformulate their products, looking for eco-friendly and effective alternatives to plastic-based glitter. This transition will require innovation and investment, but it’s one that both luxury and everyday brands are tackling head-on.

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The answer until now has been the production of biodegradable glitter, often made from materials such as plant cellulose or mica, which naturally break down without harming the environment. Bioglitter is a prime example, composed of hardwood cellulose that quickly and safely biodegrades. Brands like EcoStardust have embraced this innovation, offering festival sparkle that is not only eye-catching but also environmentally responsible.

As always, amidst the glittering array of sustainability claims, a discerning eye is crucial. Some glitters claim to be biodegradable, but hide polylactic acid beneath the surface, a material that refuses to break down without industrial composting. That’s why, to make sure your gloss meets strict sustainability standards, choose formulas marked with “OK Biodegradable Water” and “OK Biodegradable Soil” certifications.

Accredited products offer a guarantee of biodegradation in a natural freshwater environment and this significantly contributes to reducing waste in rivers, lakes or other natural freshwater, according to Andrew Thompson, technical director at Ronald Britton, the British company that developed Bioglitter. The OK Biodegradable Soil label ensures that your glitter will break down safely in the soil.

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Embracing these changes, makeup brands are aligning themselves with the growing demand for sustainability in the beauty industry, meaning that glitter can remain an attractive and creative solution for the creatives of the future.