Bigger isn’t always better. But when it comes to dive watches, they tend to be bigger. But with the introduction of the 39mm SUB 200T, DOXA shrinks its classic SUB 300 model as a nod to modern trends, even if it does give up some face real estate.
It also gives up a little less on the bank account, costing about $300 less than its big, beloved sibling, the 300T.
As a brand, DOXA has built itself around dive watches. It has been around since 1880, but made a name for itself in 1967 by creating a custom-designed, professional-grade “SUB” dive watch with legendary diver Jacques-Yves Cousteau. Today, most lists of the best dive watches will include the DOXA in the mix.
With its first 39mm launched this week to debut at the Watches and Wonders trade show in Switzerland next week, the DOXA SUB 200T adds a smaller diameter case, following modern trends. Many of the brand’s models are 41mm or larger because legibility is a major concern when diving.
A diving watch for all occasions
Realistically, most dive watches never get wet beyond anything that happens in a passing spring rain. And when it comes to fashion trends, smaller watches are on the rise.
I contacted DOXA to learn more about the new watch. DOXA’s CEO, Jan Edox, was quick to respond when I asked what niche this new model would fill.
“We think watch diameters are shrinking again to make them more comfortable on the wrist, in the water and in the office,” Edöcs wrote in an email response. “That’s why we present the SUB 200T with a diameter of 39 mm. We want to keep all the technical qualities of the watch, but by reducing its diameter, it becomes easier to wear in everyday life, for both men and women.”
Edöcs elaborated that the global demand for smaller watches is growing and that DOXA aims to meet this demand.
“By offering a visually lighter model without compromising on quality or functionality, we aim to meet the evolving needs of our diverse customer base around the world,” Edöcs wrote.
Considering a smaller watch? Check out our guide to the best field watches.
SUB 200T dive watch release
The SUB 200T retains much of what fans love about the larger, classic SUB 300 and SUB 300T. The brand noted that while “reworking the spatial volumes inside the case to bring it down to an elegant diameter of 39mm and a more wearable thickness of 10.70mm, DOXA also redesigned the dial for a more contemporary visual presence on the wrist.’
The SUB 200T is water resistant to 200m, which is enough for any recreational diver (PADI’s advanced open water diving certification only allows dives to 100ft, for example). This is a three hand dive watch made of 316L stainless steel. It has a one-way rotating panel with an integrated US Navy decompression limit table for diver safety.
A date display at 3 o’clock and a screw-down crown complete the watch, which is water resistant to 200m. It has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.
Inside, the heart is a Swiss, self-winding mechanical movement that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It has a 38-hour power reserve.
New color from DOXA
In addition to the new size of the SUB 200T, DOXA is also introducing a new color with the launch of Sea Emerald Green. The new color brings the brand’s color range to eight offerings, improving readability underwater.
“The introduction of this captivating green with the SUB 200T palette marks an aesthetic and symbolic turning point for the brand,” notes DOXA in a press release. “While DOXA passionately nurtures its strong connection with the ocean and all its aquatic aspects, this new shade expands the range of associations, evoking the color of seas, lakes and lagoons, of waters and waves in all regions of the world.”
The SUB 200T Sea Emerald features gold hands and hour markers on a green dial.
“What also sets DOXA apart is its innovative use of vibrant colors, especially the iconic orange dial, providing excellent underwater visibility. Color is part of our history and DNA. We were the first watch brand to introduce a colorful dive watch dial with the SUB concept. This is for the real practical reason of visibility, not fashion or trend,” Edöcs writes.
The SUB 200T is available today. Available on rubber straps ($1550) and bracelets ($1590). Learn more at DOXA.
