Exploring Canada is not something you can rush.
Every corner of this country, with its vast landscapes and changing views, tells a different story. But even for those of us who live here, seeing all that Canada has to offer is a lifetime’s work. So when Canadians have some time off and want to relax or find a little adventure, where do they go?
We asked four of our Canadian experts to show us their favorite vacation spots, revealing parts of the country you might not be familiar with. Maybe you’ll have time to see these places on your next trip to Canada.
The Adventure of a Lifetime: K-Country, Alberta
Alex Butler is a Lonely Planet editor from Alberta, Canada.
While tourists flock to Banff National Park’s undeniably dreamy mountain vistas, just south lies a stunning outdoor recreation area where locals seek epic scenery and solitude.
Kananaskis Country — or K-Country, as you’ll hear locals call it — encompasses approximately 4,000 sq km (1,444 sq mi) and numerous provincial parks. As a kid, this is where I spent my weekends and summers camping, blazing trails on backcountry hikes, and developing a love for snowshoeing, all amid some of the most stunning Rocky Mountain views you can find imagine.
The turquoise water of Banff’s Lake Louise captures the imagination of many travelers to the area. But the incredible beauty brought with it serious overpopulation. In Kananaskis, you’ll find similar experiences, such as hiking to the turquoise pools of Grassy Lakes or seeing towering mountains reflected in the clear water of one of my favorite spots, Lower and Upper Kananaskis Lakes. Further south, the walk to Cat Creek Falls leads to a scenic waterfall and one of the prettiest picnic spots in the area.
And while it’s a more rugged region than a national park full of amenities, there’s plenty to do regardless of outdoor comfort levels. If you’d rather enjoy the views than lace up your hiking boots, visit the Kananaskis Nordic Spa and pamper yourself. Book a trail ride for a true western experience. Or toast a nice day hike to Grizzly Paw Taproom in Canmore for a craft beer with an epic view.
The further south you go, the fewer people you’re likely to encounter, but remember, this is bear country. It’s important to learn how to stay safe. Cell phone coverage and outages here may not be frequent, so be prepared. The weather is changeable and snowfall in July is not unheard of. But with the right preparation, you’re in for the adventure of a lifetime.
Weekend All Season: Wakefield, Quebec
Joel Balsam is a Canadian freelance journalist and nomad who is never in one place for too long.
Head for the hills a 30-minute drive northwest of Ottawa to the bustling village of Wakefield, Quebec. A haven for American draft dodgers in the 1960s and populated by young families, artists and proud queers, Wakefield punches above its weight in experiences. Keep your ears peeled for local gossip while sipping coffee at Café Earle, grab brunch at Le Hibou and pop into Khewa Indigenous Art Boutique to see the creations of Métis artist Nathalie Coutou.
In summer, walk the scarlet Wakefield Covered Bridge, originally built in 1915 and restored in 1997, and hang out with the locals on the banks of the Gatineau River below. Or explore a natural water maze with a water wheel or paddle board at Éco-Odyssée. In the winter, ski or snowboard at Sommet Edelweiss, or cross-country ski or snowshoe on less traveled trails in Gatineau Park. Round off your visit with fine dining at Muse at The Wakefield Mill Hotel & Spa or Village House, and shake a feather for live local music at the beloved Blacksheep Inn or dive bar Kaffé 1870. If you can stay the night, the Mill is a romantic option and there are several inns and cozy Airbnbs around.
Hiking and Wild Swimming: North Shore Mountains, British Columbia
Brendan Sainsbury is a British travel writer who calls British Columbia home.
For me, British Columbia paradise style is running a sun-drenched trail in Vancouver’s North Shore mountains with bear spray, water purification tablets and emergency power packs stuffed into my daypack. The North Shore is a roadless mosaic of peaks and valleys just north of Vancouver, accessible by a series of well-marked trails, most of which can be reached by public transportation directly from downtown. I love the ease with which you can penetrate the backcountry from here, quickly swapping healthy suburbia for muscle bear-patrolled wilderness.
I especially like the rocky climb to the sharp summit of Crown Mountain, the strenuous boulder-hopping route through the Hanes Valley, and the rolling peaks and ridges of the 29-kilometer (18-mile) Howe Sound Crest Trail, a tough but invigorating hike that juxtaposes tight traverses with wild swimming in clear as gin glacial lakes.
Most hikers reach the North Shore via the Grouse Mountain Gondola with its spectacular summit cafe and restaurant. But walk 20 minutes along the zipline and you’ll cross an imaginary border into an unadulterated world of mossy trees and little-visited sights where the frenetic city of Vancouver feels light years away.
Staying at the Exchange Hotel in downtown Vancouver is an expensive treat worth splurging on.
Dinosaur bones in the “wastelands”: Drumheller, Alberta
Karen Henderson is a Canadian writer and editor of Lonely Planet.
While many visitors who land in Alberta flock to national parks like Jasper and Banff, the flatter part of the province holds some unique charms.
Ever since I was a kid knee-deep in front of a velociraptor, my family and I have driven the dusty, flat road to Drumheller. While the city itself has its own kitsch appeal, from the world’s largest dinosaur, the 26-metre (86ft) crawling T-rex, to the ‘Little Church’ which can only hold six people, the real draw is the scenery – come see wind-shaped stone pillars called hoodoos, and traverse deep, dried-up canyons carved deep into the earth.
Known as “the wasteland”, inhabited by eerie, striated rock formations created by millions of years of erosion, it contains some of the largest deposits of dinosaur bones in the world. You can walk among the fossilized remains of some of these amazing creatures at the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology, which houses the largest collection of dinosaur fossils in Canada. A particular highlight is “Black Beauty”, the most complete T-rex skeleton in the province, blackened by the manganese-rich water of the resting place.
The best way to experience Drumheller is to camp. Try the humble Bleriot Ferry Camp – from the riverside location you can kayak and swim in the Red Deer River. Enjoy sweeping views of the stunning Red Deer River Valley from Orkney Viewpoint and see the ancient multicolored hills of Horsethief Canyon or its smaller sister, Horseshoe Canyon.
The Last Chance Saloon is a restaurant worth trying for its comfort food and nostalgia. Located in the small ghost town of Wayne, about a 15 minute drive southeast of Drumheller. For an added dose of kitsch, you can also stay overnight in the adjacent Rosedeer Motel’s themed rooms with motifs such as Titanic and Cowboy, or camp on site.
While it may not have the Rockies, Drumheller has plenty of natural beauty and small-town wonder that keep this prairie girl coming back every summer.
