How to cook with pandan

Pandan is the fragrant, mysterious green muse of Southeast Asia. The flowering tropical plant thrives in the region and is so abundant that if it weren’t for its culinary importance, it might be considered a weed.

There are hundreds of species of pandan, but only the leaves of Pandanus amaryllifolius give off an enticing aroma. The aroma of its elongated, spear-like, shiny dark green blades is elusive, but imagine the mix of toasted rice, freshly cut grass and sweet blooming jasmine, and you’ll begin to get the idea.

In savory dishes, pandan enhances the sweetness, bringing a unique depth of flavor. In Singapore and Malaysia, pandan leaves are steamed in coconut milk to make the rich, aromatic coconut rice that is the basis for nasi lemak (coconut rice topped with fried anchovies and peanuts). In Indonesia, pandan joins forces with turmeric to make nasi kuning (turmeric rice).

The sphere of pandan-colored sweets is even more extensive and diverse. There’s the Vietnamese honeycomb-textured bánh bò nuóng and Singapore’s ethereal pandan chiffon cake that seems to melt on the tongue. Pandan has a special affinity for coconut: Indonesians and Malaysians enjoy kue dadar gulung, fluorescent green pandan-flavored pancakes wrapped around a sweet coconut filling; kaya, the beloved pandan and coconut jam; and kuih seri muka, a steamed, sticky glutinous rice snack layered with white coconut and green pandan.

For me, the appeal of pandan lies not only in its taste, but also in its versatility and rich traditions, which I used as inspiration for a pandan coconut layer cake. Every time I make it, I marvel at the power of such a humble ingredient – a simple leaf – to dazzle and perfume.

How to get a counterpart

Fresh or frozen leaves

Whole pandan leaves are usually steeped in a liquid (rice pot; simmering stew) to impart their flavor and a very subtle green hue to dishes. Chill fresh leaves upright in a jar of water or wrapped in a damp cloth in an airtight container, or buy them frozen.

Pandan extracts and pastes

Bottled pandan can turn your treats fluorescent green, so it should be used a little at a time until the desired color is achieved. (Start with 1/8 teaspoon.) Choose one that has mostly natural ingredients, like Koepoe Koepoe Pandan Paste. $9 at amazon.com

Pandan powder

Pandan powders work well in batters, cakes and puddings, adding a soft mint-green hue. Some are made from steamed pandan juice and others from the more aromatic freeze-dried leaves. My favorite is Suncore Foods Emerald Pandan Leaf Powder. $20 at suncorefoods.com

Dried pandan leaves

Dried pandan leaves rehydrate after being soaked in hot liquid, so toss dried pandan directly into your rice, curries, desserts or soups. They will keep for a year or more, but once they lose their flavor, they should be discarded and replaced. $6 for 0.5 oz on amazon.com

Artificial pandan fragrance

This clear pandan-flavored liquid is available from brands such as McCormick and Star Brand and can be used in desserts or drinks to add aroma and flavor, but without the characteristic green color imparted by fresh pandan leaves. $3 at umamicart.com

Pandan juice

Also known as pandan water or homemade extract, pandan juice is made from fresh or frozen pandan leaves that are roughly chopped and mixed together with water, then strained. Store pandan juice in the refrigerator in a sealed jar for three to four days, or in the freezer for up to three months.